Review:
- The South American invasion of the capital continues with the arrival of Lima, the brainchild of celebrated Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez. Pitched firmly upmarket, it delivers smart decor, slick service and ‘dainty’ portions (to put it mildly), with mirrors, a glass ceiling and bold artwork jazzing up the dining room. The food is equally stylish: sea-bream ceviche in a spiky, lime-rich marinade (aka ‘white tiger’s milk’) is virtuous yet satisfying, braised octopus with white quinoa and Peruvian botija olive bubbles looks good, and confit suckling pig is the star of the main courses (served with roasted Amazonian cashews, lentils and pear). Elsewhere, a delicate dish of merluza (hake) arrives with soothing kohlrabi and spicy piquillo peppers, although a dessert involving cacao porcelana chocolate has disappointed. Pisco cocktails suit the trendies, while set lunches and pre-theatre menus are decent value.
Address:
- 31 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia – London, England, UK
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